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Five ways to make the loan process go faster

We should say that “working with us” is the first way! When you let us help you find the loan that’s right for you, you truly are taking advantage of some of the area’s best technology and expertise to get you a loan decision and funding on your loan quickly.

But here are five “other” ways you can speed up the process of getting a mortgage loan:

1. Have everything ready and in one place. Elsewhere on our website, you’ll find a list of things you might need in support of your mortgage application. If you get them all together and keep them in a safe, portable place like a special pouch or folder, you can cut down on time spent rooting around for things we may need. Also, you’ll help cut down on your own anxiety and confusion.
2. Be honest and complete when you fill out your application. “Fudging” your employment or residence history or omitting open credit accounts you’d rather not have considered doesn’t increase your chances of getting a favorable loan. In 100 percent of cases, it makes it harder, and take longer.
3. Respond promptly to requests for additional information. During processing, we or the lender considering your loan may need additional information. Provide it as soon as you get the request, or return the call as soon as you get the message.
4. Be prepared to explain derogatory items in your credit report. This is really part of number 2 above. If you had an illness or a divorce where you missed or made late payments, or you have other instances of late payments or delinquencies on your credit report, be prepared to explain them. Be honest, and don’t be nervous! The loan processor isn’t judging you, they’re trying to fill in all the blanks in their paperwork.
5. Let the appraiser in! The appraisal is one of the lengthiest parts of the mortgage loan process. Studies have shown that the single biggest factor in appraisal “lag time” is the appraiser’s inability to reach the homeowner to make an appointment. If you’re refinancing and the appraiser calls to make an appointment, make it as soon as convenient for both of you.

And remember that the appraiser doesn’t want to buy your house. He or she will say what the house is worth clean and tidy and in reasonable repair, even if you have some dirty laundry on the laundry room floor or dirty dishes in the sink. Cleaning doesn’t get you a higher appraisal! Letting the appraiser in as soon as possible gets you a loan faster, though.

What is the difference between the interest rate and the A.P.R.?

You’ll see an interest rate and an Annual Percentage Rate (A.P.R.) for each mortgage loan you see advertised. The easy answer to “why” is that federal law requires the lender to tell you both.

The A.P.R. is a tool for comparing different loans, which will include different interest rates but also different points and other terms. The A.P.R. is designed to represent the “true cost of a loan” to the borrower, expressed in the form of a yearly rate. This way, lenders can’t “hide” fees and upfront costs behind low advertised rates.

While it’s designed to make it easier to compare loans, it’s sometimes confusing because the A.P.R. includes some, but not all, of the various fees and insurance premiums that accompany a mortgage. And since the federal law that requires lenders to disclose the A.P.R. does not clearly define what goes into the calculation, A.P.R.s can vary from lender to lender and loan to loan.

The A.P.R. on a loan tied to a market index, like a 5/1 ARM, assumes the market index will never change. But ARMs were invented because the market index changes and makes fixed rate loans cheaper or more expensive to make — that’s why they’re variable rate in the first placed!

So, A.P.R.s are at best inexact. The lesson is, that A.P.R. can be a guide, but you need a mortgage professional to help you find the truly best loan for you.

Note when you’re browsing for loan terms that the A.P.R. will not tell you about balloon payments or prepayment penalties, or how long your rate is locked. Also, you’ll see that A.P.R.s on 15-year loans will carry a higher relative rate due to the fact that points are amortized over a shorter period of time.

How do you “buy” a better rate?

Do you plan on keeping your loan for a while? Then it may make sense to “buy” a lower interest rate by paying one or more “points.”

Even if you’re unsure of how long you plan to keep your mortgage before you move or refinance, paying points now for a lower rate may make sense. For example, do you have a high-paying job now but you think you might change careers in the next few years? We can help you sort it out. It’s part of our finding the right loan for your means and goals.

A point — which equals one percent (1%) of the total loan amount — is an up-front fee that lowers your monthly interest rate and total interest due over the life of the loan. So, a one point loan will have a lower interest rate than a no point loan. Basically, when you pay points you trade off paying money later in favor of paying money now. You can pay fractions of points, meaning there are a lot of points packages that can make a loan’s terms more favorable if that’s what’s right for you.

There are a variety of rate and point combinations available. When you look at different loan programs, don’t look just at the rate — compare the whole package. Federal law requires lenders to publish their loans’ Annual Percentage Rate, or A.P.R.. The A.P.R. is a tool used to compare different terms, offered rates, and points.

What does it cost to refinance? What are the benefits?

Ever heard the old rule of thumb, you should only refinance if your new interest rate is at least two points lower? That may have been true years ago, but with refinancing dropping in cost over the last few years, it’s never the wrong time to think about a new loan! Refinancing has a number of benefits that often make it worth the up-front expenditure many times over.

When you refinance, you might be able to lower your interest rate and monthly payment — sometimes significantly. You might also be able to “cash out” some of the built-up equity in your home, which you can use to consolidate debt, improve your home, take a vacation — whatever! With lower rates and balances, you might also be able to build up home equity faster with a shorter-term new mortgage.

All these benefits do cost something, though. When you refinance, you’re paying for most of the same things you paid for when you obtained your original mortgage. These might include settlement costs and other fees, an appraisal, lender’s title insurance, underwriting fees, and so on.

You might have to pay a penalty if you refinance your previous mortgage too quickly. That depends on the terms of your existing mortgage. These penalties are illegal in some places, and more often than not when they’re there apply only for the first year or two. We’ll help you figure it out.

You might pay points to get a more favorable interest rate. If you pay (on average) three percent of the loan amount up front, your savings for the life of the new mortgage can be significant. You should be aware that the IRS has recently said that points paid for the purpose of refinancing your mortgage cannot be deducted in their entirety in the year you pay them, unless the refinanced loan is primarily for home improvements. Consult your tax professional before deducting points you pay on your new mortgage from your federal income taxes.

Speaking of taxes, if you lower your interest rate, naturally you will be lowering the amount of mortgage interest payments you can deduct from your federal income taxes. This is another cost that some borrowers consider. We can help you do the math!

Ultimately, for most people the amount of up-front costs to refinance are made up very quickly in monthly savings. We’ll work with you to determine what program is best for you, considering your cash on hand, how likely you are to sell your home in the near future, and what effect refinancing might have on your taxes.

Which refinancing option is best for you?

There aren’t quite as many loan programs as there are borrowers, but it seems like it sometimes! We’ll work with you to qualify you for the best loan program to fit your needs. But there are some general considerations you can have in mind in advance.

Are you refinancing primarily to lower your rate and monthly payments? Then your best option might be a low fixed-rate loan. Maybe you have a fixed-rate mortgage now with a higher rate, or maybe you have an ARM — adjustable rate mortgage — where the interest rate varies. Even if it’s low now, unlike your ARM, when you qualify for a fixed-rate mortgage you lock that low rate in for the life of your loan. This is especially a good idea if you don’t think you’ll be moving within the next five years or so. On the other hand, if you do see yourself moving within the next few years, an ARM with a low initial rate might be the best way to lower your monthly payment.

Are you refinancing primarily to cash out some home equity? Maybe you want to pay for home improvements, pay your child’s college tuition bill, take your dream vacation, whatever. Then you’ll want to qualify for a loan for more than the balance remaining on your current mortgage. If you’ve had your current mortgage for a number of years and/or have a mortgage whose interest rate is higher, you may be able to do this without increasing your monthly payment.

You want to cash out some equity to consolidate other debt? Good idea! If you have the equity in your home to make it work, paying off other debt with higher interest rates than the interest rate on your mortgage — for example, credit cards, home equity loans, car loans, some student loans — means you can save possibly hundreds of dollars a month.

Do you want to build up home equity more quickly, and pay off your mortgage sooner? Consider refinancing with a shorter-term loan, such as a 15-year mortgage. Your payments will be higher than with a longer-term loan, but in exchange, you will pay substantially less interest and will build up equity more quickly. If you have had your current 30-year mortgage for a number of years and the loan balance is relatively low, you may be able to do this without increasing your monthly payment — you may even be able to save! For example, let’s say years ago you took out a $150,000 30-year mortgage at eight percent. Your payment is about $1,100, exclusive of taxes, insurance and so on. If your balance today is down to $130,000, you might take out a 15-year mortgage at six percent and have an almost identical monthly payment. This is a great option for people whose main goal is not to save money on their monthly payment but rather want to build up equity and pay off their home more quickly.


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